So, it appears the drains don't work that well in Dhaka

Wonder Woman! The joys of visiting Singapore when you are older...

The rainy season has started.  So has Ramadan.  The rainy season in the desh is full of contrasts - baking hot one moment, dust blowing everywhere and then ridiculously heavy rain and cooler temperatures the next!  The rain, when it comes, it quite special.  It comes down hard.  Not necessarily for that long but very hard.

Now you might be aware that the roads near where we live in Dhaka recently had some new 'storm drains' added.  They dug the holes in the road - by hand.  They moved the new drains into the ground - by hand.  They covered it over with some rubble - by hand.  Then it rained.  And the rubble all disappeared and massive holes appeared - which obviously you can't see when it's been raining and there are a few feet of water on the road!  Result - a number of cars driving into them and getting a little bit stuck.

So, next step in the process?  Covering the holes and rubble in the road with tarmac - by hand.  Picture the scene, old metal barrels on their side with a kind of metal tray on top. Underneath a fire made from burning old bits of cloth and rubbish.  On top, bits of stone and hot tar.  People all around adding to the fire or to the hot tar - and all in a pair of flip-flops and a longi (or a sari for the women). Payment for a days work on this - approximately 500 BDT per day (for the men - which is about 3 UK pounds) and less than that for the women.

So, the new road and the new drains, they should stand up to the rainfall yes?  Well, no.  The rain at the weekend flooded the road outside the British High Commission - approximately 1 - 2 feet of water after about 1 hours rain.  We now have more pot holes appearing - kindly marked out by a bit of tree so that drivers and rickshaw wallahs don't drive into it!

Meanwhile, down in Old Dhaka, markets were still under 1 - 2 feet of water the next day.  Why is this?  Now some will argue 'oh it's climate change' and yes, with climate change we can expect the rainfall patterns to change and intensify.  But this is a multi-layered problem.  It involves corruption, it involves lack of planning and budgeting, it involves land grabbing.  Oh the list goes on.

Moving onto more lighthearted issues, Isobel and I went to Singapore for a long weekend.  When I was young, Singapore was a little bit dull to be honest.  It was so clean and functional.  I wanted chaos and excitement.  Now when I went to Singapore from Dhaka I thought - oh my, this is paradise.  It functions, there are pavements, there is public transport, there is a cable car (with Wonder Woman no less), there is Ben and Jerrys.  It was a great visit.  And happily in the airport on the way home I found some Belgian chocolates....which tasted lovely with a bottle of Belgian beer back here in Dhaka!

Thinking of beer, one of the many conversations amongst expats here (apart from 'where can I buy food without formulin in it' and 'where is good to go for a weekend break from Dhaka and how long will it take?') is around which of the many expat clubs has the best beer.  Bangladesh is a dry country- so as an expat you can only get alcohol through diplomatic missions (if you are a diplomat), through a 'warehouse' (if you have what they call a passbook) or through some of the clubs.  We have the Dutch club (complete with little climbing wall and bitterballen), the German club (good pizza), the Nordic club (good cinnamon buns) and so on.  But the beer vote goes to......the American club.  What a range of beer! In fact as one colleague of mine said 'thats the fridge I long to sit outside'.

A selection of the beers at the American Club Dhaka

In addition to beer, the other industry which is growing in Dhaka is that related to bread and baking!  I love a good bake.  I'm looking forward to the next Great British Bake Off which I'll be watching thanks to modern technology.  An English guy has moved to Dhaka and is helping train up a group of bakers who are going to open a new bakery for all to enjoy.  Bread and baked products in Asia are often disappointing if what you are after is a croissant or western type product (obviously, Asian roti and other such breads are easily available and incredibly tasty!).  However, growing middle classes in many Asian countries are looking for these western baked goods.  And so Dhaka has now launched the Holey Artisan Bakery.  So far we've only tasted almond croissants, pain au chocolat, sourdough and fruit loaf but they were very very tasty!  Let's hope the Bangladeshi bakers can keep it up when they realise that most bakeries bake through the night and early morning to have bread ready for breakfast as opposed to 7pm at night! I'll be supporting them.

And whilst on the baking theme and before signing off for the day, I have still been baking!  This time, baked doughnuts with cinnamon sugar!  Baked! Yummy.  So much healthier I'm sure (if you ignore the sugar).  Did you know you can get a book just about doughnuts - it's good, look it up - by Rosie Reynolds.  It's small but full of lovely recipes!

And father Christmas won't cut my Willy wonka off

That was the quote from Arty this morning. Classic.

Yes, Christmas is coming and the kids are ramping up their excitement levels! Christmas in Bangladesh. It's quite different. Firstly, it's lovely and sunny and warm. Secondly, they don't play Slade in every shop you go into. Finally, mulled wine doesn't quite have the same pull factor....

Having said that, we have made a Christmas garland to hang on the door. We have played Christmas Carols very loudly and sung out of tune to Oh Come All ye Faithful.  Tonight we went to the Christmas party at the High Commissioners house....Arty ate his body weight in mince pies and chocolate brownies, and then proceeded to rub his filthy hands clean on Santas outfit.

We've had a fun few weeks. The UN day celebration at Isobels school had her donning a fantastic Union Jack dress....a bit spice girls but you know, longer and less fitted! It made us think though as we watched the other nations walk past - Sudan, India, Korea, Mexico....great national costumes. Then Italy and the UK seemed to be the two least interesting.....what about Morris dancing outfits?

Anyway, we are soon to be on a plane back to the UK for never ending stilton and mince pies and Christmas cake.....and, fingers crossed, a trip to the Hobbit2! Yeah.

Things I am learning in the Desh - the two Eids!

I'm learning a lot here in the Desh:

• I'm learning that Pizza dough puffs up in about 3 seconds. 
  
  

  

  
  
  

  

  After about 30 minutes!

• That sourdough needs to be fed approximately every 12 hours (look at those bubbles!).  
• That they have these great samosa type snacks called 'Singara' which I'm going to have a go at making - filled with spicy potato yumminess.  I found a link with some pictures and a recipe in case you're tempted - http://weloveourbangladesh.blogspot.com/2011/01/somocha.html.

At the moment, the learning is all about religion.  We hear a lot about Eid in the UK in terms of the Eid at the end of Ramadan.  I am now learning about another Eid.  I'm hoping I've got this right - bear with me if I haven't - I'm still learning!

Eid al-Fitr is the Eid at the end of Ramadan.  It marks the end of the fasting and is apparently celebrated for one day.

Eid ul-Adha is next week - Wednesday and Thursday to be precise.  It's known by those in the office and surroundings as the 'bloody eid' (I don't think that's a technically correct name though!).  Why? Well, because this Eid is a celebration of Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son, Ismail.  God intervened and swapped his son for a sheep to sacrifice instead.  So, the streets will soon be filled with animals - cows, goats, sheep and even camels apparently (camels for the wealthy).  Then, next Wednesday, the animals are killed in recognition of this sacrifice by Abraham.  This weekend we're going to investigate the roads near here as apparently the cows are being lined up ready for sale.  People will buy them and then decorate them with garlands and feed them up.  They are then killed on the streets on the first morning of Eid.

I'm not entirely sure how much we'll see of the actually killing - we're around in Dhaka over Eid.  This is a fact that our Bangla teach found most strange as most people try to get away. It's the noise that we need to possibly warn the kids about - the animals make a lot of noise before they are killed.  We live in a part of Dhaka where I've been told that they wash the streets down afterwards to remove the blood and bits, but who knows!  We might have some interesting pictures to post here next week!

There are a few of us about though, we're planning some trips to see the mass exodus from the city and also the Durga Puja.  This is the other religious event next week - on Monday.  It's something we know very little about - so another learning opportunity.  Bangladesh apparently has the second largest Hindu community in the world.  The Durga Puja apparently celebrates the victory of the Goddess Durga over the evil buffalo demon Mahishasura.  I have absolutely no idea what it will entail - so, stay tuned for an update!